Transportation
I took the SNCF overnight fast train from Antibes to Paris for about 40 euros (with Carte 12-25 discount), including a bunk in a 4-berth. For my return trip I took an EasyJet flight from Charles De Gaulle airport to Nice and the bus from Nice to Antibes. While in Paris we took the metro and walked everywhere.
SNCF website: http://www.voyages-sncf.com/
EasyJet website: http://www.easyjet.com/
Lodging
We stayed at Auberge Internationale des Jeunes near Place de la Bastille. The location was great and the neighborhood was nice, but this place was completely bare bones. Each room had some bunk beds and a sink, but the toilets were down the hall and just stall style, not a separate washroom with stalls inside the room, so basically if you had to pee and someone was walking down the hall they could hear you. The floor didn't have enough showers for everyone and the washroom with showers was co-ed with sopping wet floors. This made washing and dressing very difficult and time consuming. Also, the place was literally packed with high school kids, possibly on a school trip, intermingled with backpackers. Bottom line: it was cheap but I wouldn't stay there again.
website: http://aijparis.com/
Food
We didn't make any plans for food, but ate pizza at a little Italian place in Place de la Bastille, grabbed pastries, had lunch at a patisserie in the Latin Quarter (quiche, crepe and a soda for 7 euros? Amazing!) and snacks from Monoprix. We also had breakfast provided at the hostel, though it was pretty disappointing (a hard mini-baguette with jam and tea).
Activities
We mostly spent our time wandering around, taking pictures, and enjoying the city. We also went to the Musée d'Orsay and attended mass at Notre Dame and a short, free choral concert at a church near the Champs Elysees. Unless you have a checklist of things you MUST see or do while in Paris, I highly recommend this method of visiting the city. It's relaxed and gives you a real sense of the place rather than the typical tourist experience. Best of all, almost everything we did was free.
Wednesday, March 16, 2011
2010 Flashback: Weekend Escape to Paris
In early March of 2010 I was living in Antibes, France. A month prior I had spent an amazing week at the Taizé ecumenical retreat in the Bourgogne region of France. During that week I made new friends and communed with God, nature, and the monks living there. Only weeks later I was eager to see one of my new friends again, so I made plans with another teaching assistant named Clara (from Germany) to meet in Paris for two days. It was divine.
See the Itinerary here.
This was my second trip to Paris and it was very brief, so I decided to approach it more haphasardly than normal. My only plans were to arrive on a certain train, sleep at a certain hostel, and leave on a certain flight. Otherwise, it was all left to chance, weather, and what suited us at a given moment.
Paris:
Before coming to Europe I knew I would see Paris but did not think I would like it any more or less than any other European city. I was told that Parisians are rude, the city is crowded and dirty, and not to expect too much. This was my second visit to Paris and, once again, it was divine. When I visited for Christmas with Leigh it was an unexpectedly fun time. We saw the major sights, absorbed the art and the sense of the city. I loved experiencing such a beautiful city with my best friend, even if we were bundled up in coats the whole time. However, we tried to do everything in about 4 or 5 days and were always tired. This time I wandered around with a new friend for the sole purpose of enjoying spring weather, taking photos, observing Parisians and visitors alike, and sharing stories. We had no agenda or check list of sights, which added to the Parisian spirit, I believe.
At one point Clara remarked, "I am in Paris, at an Italian restaurant, with an American girl surrounded by Spanish people. This is so Paris!" She was completely correct, and the sentiment was the same for me, the American Girl. Paris is a great city because, like New York, it is very international but, as it is Paris, it is still completely French and the non-French maintain their unique qualities to create a melting pot. I really love visiting this city and was so happy to be return once more just before my flight back to the States.
See the Itinerary here.
This was my second trip to Paris and it was very brief, so I decided to approach it more haphasardly than normal. My only plans were to arrive on a certain train, sleep at a certain hostel, and leave on a certain flight. Otherwise, it was all left to chance, weather, and what suited us at a given moment.
Place de la Bastille, very near our hostel. The last time I was in Paris I somehow managed to miss this entirely. It is very near to a nice neighborhood with very reasonably priced food and drink as well as a bit of shopping.
Instead of a typical run-down on a quick weekend getaway, I would like to recap the experience thematically. It was a great weekend full of discovery, as is common when spending time exploring a new city and getting to know a new friend, especially one from a different culture.
I was in Heaven with all of the boats on the Seine throughout the weekend and it was sunny and clear most of the time.
Languages:
Now that I have become acquainted with some people who do not speak English as a first language, but usually a second or even third language, I never fail to be in awe of the European education system. It is considered typical to speak two or three languages pretty well, if not extremely well, and it is atypical to not have enough interest in languages to speak at least a little bit of a second language. English is, of course, a very important language around the world, especially in Europe. It is often the single common language amongst a group of people. Clara's English is very good, though she commented that she doesn't think so. I told her it isn't perfect, but it is very impressive, and I really enjoyed listening to her accent and sentence structure. Her vocabulary is very diverse to the point where I often wonder who thought to teach her and her classmates some of these words (ex: "chatchki," as in the little figures that people use to decorate their houses- really?).
At one point Clara listed her language preferences (after German, of course) as 1- Italian, 2- French, and 3- English. She put English last because it is the language of work and business but French and Italian are languages of love and poetry. I tend to agree, especially since I have found that anglophones rarely speak English poetically or even very well anymore, while Europeans manage to insert the beauty of their mother tongues into English when speaking, so in this sense it is actually more pleasant for me to speak with non-anglophones.Even though we communicated very well in English, it never seemed fair for one person to make most of the effort, especially when we both have an interest in French. Unfortunately my spoken French is very limited for anything beyond basic conversations and running errands, so English prevailed in the end. However, my experience this weekend has only propelled my interest in becoming more fluent through reading and speaking, perhaps even taking courses. I also want to improve my English, oddly enough. As a lawyer I write and speak well, but that is purely technical and lacks passion and poetry. I believe English can be a very beautiful language and I hope that with some effort I can learn to use it better.
Notre Dame de Paris. We attended the international mass here. The music was beautiful and I really enjoyed the chance to really see the cathedral. There was also a large group of Girl Guides sitting in front of us. They were really cute when passing the peace using their special Girl Guides handshake with one another.
Culture:
One of my favorite parts about befriending non-Americans is that there is always so much to learn from one another. If you find a certain harmony with a person it doesn't matter if you have anything obvious in common. After finding this harmony you can learn about one another's life experiences from different perspectives and simply enjoy their company. While it is interesting to hear about the differences, there is a unique elation that comes from finding similarities in the human experience. In the past five months or so I have found that certain things, like coming of age moments and hopes for the future, are universal and can make wonderful bonding points for cross-cultural connections.
The differences can be very fun too, especially if attached to a stereotype. Over the past five or six months I have become desensitized to a lot of European habits, but I didn't realize that Clara probably doesn't get to spend much time with Americans. I found myself under a bit of a microscope at some moments, such as not using my knife to eat (Europeans hold their knife and fork throughout the meal, while I seem to be physically incapable of eating with my left hand), which I found to be an interesting experience after growing up in a huge country where most people are Americans or Americanized.
Clara had to get back to her school in Normandy for work Monday morning, so I was all on my own for the day. I went to Montmartre first to see Sacre Coeur and also saw this woman playing the accordian and a lot of artists who didn't want their photographs taken. Pity...
New Friends:
I rushed through high school, university, and law school very quickly with about 90 percent of my focus on finishing my studies. It is no wonder I only have a few friends I am still in contact with from any given experience. In fact, my closest friends today are the ones I have met randomly through work and travel. Because of this, for me, becoming friends with several new people at once, like at Taize, was an absolute treat for me. What made it even better was that I was able to extend at least one of those new friendships into the real world. I hope that this is a sign of good things to come in terms of extending my network of personal relationships for the remainder of my life.In the past year or so I have become very aware of how I chose to spend my youth and in many ways I mourn the carefree years that I lost due to personal circumstances or gave away to seek accomplishment. Sometimes I fear that I will always be so focused on accomplishments that I will fail to experience my life as it happens. The truth is that I look impressive on paper, but diplomas and publications do not fill my heart in any way. These things are tools to be used to do interesting work, but it is family and friendships that I desire most so that when I look back on my life I will see a life filled with joyful moments shared with the ones I love.
Montmartre was goregeous. I had only seen it from the foot of the hill before. It is a completely atypical structure and yet still turned out so beautifully, not a hot mess like so many other innovative architectural attempts.
Paris:
Before coming to Europe I knew I would see Paris but did not think I would like it any more or less than any other European city. I was told that Parisians are rude, the city is crowded and dirty, and not to expect too much. This was my second visit to Paris and, once again, it was divine. When I visited for Christmas with Leigh it was an unexpectedly fun time. We saw the major sights, absorbed the art and the sense of the city. I loved experiencing such a beautiful city with my best friend, even if we were bundled up in coats the whole time. However, we tried to do everything in about 4 or 5 days and were always tired. This time I wandered around with a new friend for the sole purpose of enjoying spring weather, taking photos, observing Parisians and visitors alike, and sharing stories. We had no agenda or check list of sights, which added to the Parisian spirit, I believe.
At one point Clara remarked, "I am in Paris, at an Italian restaurant, with an American girl surrounded by Spanish people. This is so Paris!" She was completely correct, and the sentiment was the same for me, the American Girl. Paris is a great city because, like New York, it is very international but, as it is Paris, it is still completely French and the non-French maintain their unique qualities to create a melting pot. I really love visiting this city and was so happy to be return once more just before my flight back to the States.
Monday, March 14, 2011
Thinking About the Future: Work, Travel, Family, and Now
Many apologies for the delay in an update. I'm still working on posts about Costa Rica and then will move on to other locations, particularly Europe and parts of the US. Seeing as this isn't just a blog about international travel, and seeing as I live in a kickass place (Alaska), I also plan to start incorporating some stories of living Up North and the fun challenges that tends to bring.
In the meantime, I feel compelled to use the typical excuse for my lack of blogging: my job! Things were really slow a few weeks ago but I'm afraid that time has passed. At any rate, my first love is traveling and so my related loves are blogging about traveling and sharing stories and pictures. More to come very soon, I promise!
Other blogs, including Go! Girl Guides (a personal favorite) attempt to inspire readers by writing about how one's job can be incorporated into one's travel addiction. The general rule of thumb is that if you have a clear goal and give sufficient notice that you can take time off every few years to do some serious traveling. I agree, of course, but I also think this information is best suited for younger, single travelers. I'm married and we are planning to start a family, so this begs the question of how to incorporate my travel addiction and my family's desire to lead a very "novel" existence with our need for basic things like income and education. After some thought on the topic, I've come up with a few vague solutions:
1. Work really hard, get the kids through school then retire early and travel indefinitely
This is a pretty cool idea, but it requires many other factors to be accounted for including the ability to save substantial sums of money while raising a family and giving up most traveling (aside from quick 1 week vacations) for years on end. Honestly, I'm not 100% certain that I can buckle down without a break for more than 3 years at a time. Another negative is that our prospective kids would not be included on our bigger adventures, as we would all be so focused on work and school during their formative years. The positive side of this, however, is that we could look at our financial and career situation and basically determine we would be away for X number of years. When we tired of traveling we could get new jobs and work less fanatically for the remainder of our careers.
2. Work really hard part of the year and take long/possibly unpaid vacations with the family
This would require a VERY flexible work situation for both myself and my spouse. The more companies allow employees to make their own schedules and work remotely, the more possible this is. However, it's important to make plans based on reasonable assumptions. At this point, I just can't assume that we could take a month or more off every year. Plus, with kids, it's important to consider school schedules. Alaska has beautiful summers, so it would be a shame to plan our travels during the summer/high season and miss that and we are opposed to homeschooling the kids for more than a year at a time.
3. Work really hard without much of a break for a few years at a time, taking "sabbatical" time every 2 to 3 years for an extended trip with the family
I like this idea too. In theory we would work and save for a few years, then pull the kids out of school for a few months and hit the road. It would be a great way to spend time together, see the world, and give our family a unique experience. The down side is that this might impede our ability to save for our non-working days and it might cause problems with our kids in terms of their educations and extracurriculars.
In short, there's no perfect solution for the average young family, unless you win the lottery! Assuming that won't happen (seeing as I don't play the lottery and Alaska doesn't actually have a lottery to play anyway), we need a game plan. The ideal option would be to combine all of the options: work really hard at my flexible job, save money for years at a time, take short sabbatical trips as a family every few years and ultimately retire or semi-retire very early to allow for extended travel as a couple.
Is this a pipe dream? Can I make this work?
Maybe a bit of both. I'm an attorney and my spouse works in accounting. At our current jobs none of these options are possible, but I will be changing jobs in 2012 so at that point we will have a better idea of our options. We both really like our jobs and want to do well with them, but we both also understand that work should not be our whole lives.
In the meantime I will be going with Option Now: working 9-5 and getting my student debt in order while saving to buy a house or something. Once I have a little stability I can work toward the future.... which includes living in an awesome, cold place and an upcoming trip to HAWAI'I!
In the meantime, I feel compelled to use the typical excuse for my lack of blogging: my job! Things were really slow a few weeks ago but I'm afraid that time has passed. At any rate, my first love is traveling and so my related loves are blogging about traveling and sharing stories and pictures. More to come very soon, I promise!
Other blogs, including Go! Girl Guides (a personal favorite) attempt to inspire readers by writing about how one's job can be incorporated into one's travel addiction. The general rule of thumb is that if you have a clear goal and give sufficient notice that you can take time off every few years to do some serious traveling. I agree, of course, but I also think this information is best suited for younger, single travelers. I'm married and we are planning to start a family, so this begs the question of how to incorporate my travel addiction and my family's desire to lead a very "novel" existence with our need for basic things like income and education. After some thought on the topic, I've come up with a few vague solutions:
1. Work really hard, get the kids through school then retire early and travel indefinitely
This is a pretty cool idea, but it requires many other factors to be accounted for including the ability to save substantial sums of money while raising a family and giving up most traveling (aside from quick 1 week vacations) for years on end. Honestly, I'm not 100% certain that I can buckle down without a break for more than 3 years at a time. Another negative is that our prospective kids would not be included on our bigger adventures, as we would all be so focused on work and school during their formative years. The positive side of this, however, is that we could look at our financial and career situation and basically determine we would be away for X number of years. When we tired of traveling we could get new jobs and work less fanatically for the remainder of our careers.
2. Work really hard part of the year and take long/possibly unpaid vacations with the family
This would require a VERY flexible work situation for both myself and my spouse. The more companies allow employees to make their own schedules and work remotely, the more possible this is. However, it's important to make plans based on reasonable assumptions. At this point, I just can't assume that we could take a month or more off every year. Plus, with kids, it's important to consider school schedules. Alaska has beautiful summers, so it would be a shame to plan our travels during the summer/high season and miss that and we are opposed to homeschooling the kids for more than a year at a time.
3. Work really hard without much of a break for a few years at a time, taking "sabbatical" time every 2 to 3 years for an extended trip with the family
I like this idea too. In theory we would work and save for a few years, then pull the kids out of school for a few months and hit the road. It would be a great way to spend time together, see the world, and give our family a unique experience. The down side is that this might impede our ability to save for our non-working days and it might cause problems with our kids in terms of their educations and extracurriculars.
In short, there's no perfect solution for the average young family, unless you win the lottery! Assuming that won't happen (seeing as I don't play the lottery and Alaska doesn't actually have a lottery to play anyway), we need a game plan. The ideal option would be to combine all of the options: work really hard at my flexible job, save money for years at a time, take short sabbatical trips as a family every few years and ultimately retire or semi-retire very early to allow for extended travel as a couple.
Is this a pipe dream? Can I make this work?
Maybe a bit of both. I'm an attorney and my spouse works in accounting. At our current jobs none of these options are possible, but I will be changing jobs in 2012 so at that point we will have a better idea of our options. We both really like our jobs and want to do well with them, but we both also understand that work should not be our whole lives.
In the meantime I will be going with Option Now: working 9-5 and getting my student debt in order while saving to buy a house or something. Once I have a little stability I can work toward the future.... which includes living in an awesome, cold place and an upcoming trip to HAWAI'I!
Monday, March 7, 2011
Costa Rica Itinerary
Traveler: EM (solo, female)
Date of Trip: Spring 2009
Duration: Approx. 1 week
Cities: San Jose, La Fortuna, Monteverde, and Playa Jaco
Modes of Transportation: public long-distance buses, shared taxis with other travelers, and touristy Jeep-Boat-Jeep from La Fortuna to Monteverde
Trip Photos
San Jose
Lodging:
Costa Rica Backpackers- clean, safe rooms at a reasonable price and an excellent trip planning office to help you make reservations and plan trips for the following days. One complaint: I prepaid for two nights upon arrival (as required) but moments later made plans to leave the next morning for La Fortuna. The front desk would not refund the overpaid amount and they wouldn't let me use the money as credit for other services (food from the cantina, etc)! This was frustrating, but they did let me use some of the overpaid amount toward a night's stay at the end of my trip before flying back to the U.S. In all I was out about $12, but it would be nice if they were more flexible!
website: http://www.costaricabackpackers.com/
Food:
I ate at the cantina on the hostel's premises and bought some snacks from a grocery store about 4 blocks away. San Jose is a busy, fast, dirty and slightly sketchy city, so I reserved my adventurous wandering around for less confusing destinations.
Whitewater Rafting: I can't find the information about which tour group I took, but the hostel still organizes these trips, though I believe with another company. Any of the Eco Tour groups are fine and rates are pretty steady around $100 per person. This might seem steep, but it was a full day of activity and the company provided food and transportation before and after the rafting.
La Fortuna
Lodging- again, I have no idea where I stayed. The rafting company drove about 10 of us around La Fortuna in the evening, stopping at various guest houses and hostels (we could make requests or just ask the driver's opinion) to ask if they had vacancy. I shared a triple room with ensuite bathroom at a guest house with two other women for the night. We paid no more than $20 each and it was very comfortable, though nothing fancy.
Food- La Fortuna has a number of places to eat. I had dinner at a cafeteria that served everything from pizza to tacos to burgers and milkshakes. Prices were a little bit inflated for tourists and the quality was low, but that's pretty typical in Costa Rica.
Monteverde
Lodging- I stayed at Casa Tranquilo hostel in a bunk bed room with attached bath. There were six of us total in that room and by this time we all knew each other pretty well, so we basically got a "private" room for our party at hostel per bed rates! I think we paid about $10 or $15 per person, this included breakfast and they very nice family of owners helped us to make arrangements for zipline tours and taxis to the coast. None of us had researched this place beforehand, so I don't know if they have stopped offering the bunk-bed option or if it's just not advertised on their website, but now they advertise single and double rooms for as little as $20 per night with no mention of the bunk-bed room.
website: http://www.casatranquilohostel.com/index.htm
Food- we ate dinner at the Tree House about 1/2 mile away from the hostel. The main drag of the town has a number of places to eat with a variety of options, all a bit pricey for Central American standards but nothing unaffordable for American backpackers. My meal at the Tree House was about $15 or so and I had a drink and dessert. The restaurant also has computers guests can use before or after their meal to check email, etc.
website: http://www.treehouse.cr/
Playa Jaco
Lodging- I stayed in Playa Jaco for about 4 nights and loved every moment of it. The hostels in the beach towns often don't have their own websites, so I was skeptical but in the end very pleased with Las Camas Hostel. The owners are a young couple, very friendly and helpful. It isn't always perfectly clean, but very acceptable and comfortable. The rooftop area is a lot of fun and it's perfectly located near the beach, groceries, and markets. Best of all, this place seems to attract a great group of travelers to share your experience with. I would definitely visit again!
website/review: http://www.hostelz.com/hostel/105502-Las-Camas-Hostel
Food- there are tons of great places to eat in Playa Jaco including an outdoor pizza bar, local places to get fish dishes, rice and beans, etc. You really can't go wrong! If you want to hang out with travelers or find American food just pop into any place along the main drag. If you want a more local place ask the hostel owners about local places and they will direct you to small establishments on the cross streets near the beach and fish shops.
Other tips and tricks:
Date of Trip: Spring 2009
Duration: Approx. 1 week
Cities: San Jose, La Fortuna, Monteverde, and Playa Jaco
Modes of Transportation: public long-distance buses, shared taxis with other travelers, and touristy Jeep-Boat-Jeep from La Fortuna to Monteverde
Trip Photos
San Jose
Lodging:
Costa Rica Backpackers- clean, safe rooms at a reasonable price and an excellent trip planning office to help you make reservations and plan trips for the following days. One complaint: I prepaid for two nights upon arrival (as required) but moments later made plans to leave the next morning for La Fortuna. The front desk would not refund the overpaid amount and they wouldn't let me use the money as credit for other services (food from the cantina, etc)! This was frustrating, but they did let me use some of the overpaid amount toward a night's stay at the end of my trip before flying back to the U.S. In all I was out about $12, but it would be nice if they were more flexible!
website: http://www.costaricabackpackers.com/
Food:
I ate at the cantina on the hostel's premises and bought some snacks from a grocery store about 4 blocks away. San Jose is a busy, fast, dirty and slightly sketchy city, so I reserved my adventurous wandering around for less confusing destinations.
Whitewater Rafting: I can't find the information about which tour group I took, but the hostel still organizes these trips, though I believe with another company. Any of the Eco Tour groups are fine and rates are pretty steady around $100 per person. This might seem steep, but it was a full day of activity and the company provided food and transportation before and after the rafting.
La Fortuna
Lodging- again, I have no idea where I stayed. The rafting company drove about 10 of us around La Fortuna in the evening, stopping at various guest houses and hostels (we could make requests or just ask the driver's opinion) to ask if they had vacancy. I shared a triple room with ensuite bathroom at a guest house with two other women for the night. We paid no more than $20 each and it was very comfortable, though nothing fancy.
Food- La Fortuna has a number of places to eat. I had dinner at a cafeteria that served everything from pizza to tacos to burgers and milkshakes. Prices were a little bit inflated for tourists and the quality was low, but that's pretty typical in Costa Rica.
Monteverde
Lodging- I stayed at Casa Tranquilo hostel in a bunk bed room with attached bath. There were six of us total in that room and by this time we all knew each other pretty well, so we basically got a "private" room for our party at hostel per bed rates! I think we paid about $10 or $15 per person, this included breakfast and they very nice family of owners helped us to make arrangements for zipline tours and taxis to the coast. None of us had researched this place beforehand, so I don't know if they have stopped offering the bunk-bed option or if it's just not advertised on their website, but now they advertise single and double rooms for as little as $20 per night with no mention of the bunk-bed room.
website: http://www.casatranquilohostel.com/index.htm
Food- we ate dinner at the Tree House about 1/2 mile away from the hostel. The main drag of the town has a number of places to eat with a variety of options, all a bit pricey for Central American standards but nothing unaffordable for American backpackers. My meal at the Tree House was about $15 or so and I had a drink and dessert. The restaurant also has computers guests can use before or after their meal to check email, etc.
website: http://www.treehouse.cr/
Playa Jaco
Lodging- I stayed in Playa Jaco for about 4 nights and loved every moment of it. The hostels in the beach towns often don't have their own websites, so I was skeptical but in the end very pleased with Las Camas Hostel. The owners are a young couple, very friendly and helpful. It isn't always perfectly clean, but very acceptable and comfortable. The rooftop area is a lot of fun and it's perfectly located near the beach, groceries, and markets. Best of all, this place seems to attract a great group of travelers to share your experience with. I would definitely visit again!
website/review: http://www.hostelz.com/hostel/105502-Las-Camas-Hostel
Food- there are tons of great places to eat in Playa Jaco including an outdoor pizza bar, local places to get fish dishes, rice and beans, etc. You really can't go wrong! If you want to hang out with travelers or find American food just pop into any place along the main drag. If you want a more local place ask the hostel owners about local places and they will direct you to small establishments on the cross streets near the beach and fish shops.
Other tips and tricks:
- The long-distance buses are a good deal, even if they seem a little bit mysterious. I took a bus from Puntarenas to Playa Jaco for under $3 and a bus from Playa Jaco to San Jose (4 hours or so) for under $10! Locals are very friendly, so just ask where to buy tickets. The ticket seller will point you toward the bus stop, but this isnt' really necessary because you'll see a large crowd of people waiting and probably vendors selling ice cream and bags of drinking water (yes, really!) and such. The buses are safe and fairly comfortable, but the stops are not announced in any intelligible way. Make sure you know what landmarks to look for to find your stop. I missed my stop in Playa Jaco and had to walk almost a mile to my hostel, but ultimately it wasn't a big deal. Costa Ricans take these buses too, so you can always ask someone sitting near you if you've reached your destination.
- Check out Playa Hermosa on the Pacific Coast. It's about 5 miles from Playa Jaco and has more options for food and nightlife. I prefer Jaco for the slower pace and surfing, but Hermosa is definitely worth a day or evening visit.
- Costa Rican Spanish is very easy to understand because the accent causes the words to be pronounced very clearly. This is great for visitors, but don't assume that everyone speaks English (for one thing, it's rude!). Learn a few basic phrases and this will go a long way.
- Costa Rica is a little bit expensive by Central American standards, but it is still very affordable. Budget for more money than you plan to spend to allow yourself fun experiences like whitewater rafting, ziplining, ATV riding, etc. $50 or $100 for a day of activity might seem steep if you're a college student, but at the end of your trip you will be happy you spent the money if it was an activity you really wanted to take part in.
- Do lots of research if you must, but don't be afraid to just arrive in Costa Rica with only a vague plan. There are so many lodging and transportation options and so many people who make their living providing these services that the worst thing that could happen is you spend a relaxing day in a nice mountain or beach town waiting for the next bus. If all lodging options are completely full it's not unheard of for proprietors to let you "rent" the couch in the common area until a bed opens up.
Taking it Easy in Costa Rica: New York to San Jose to La Fortuna
New York City had grown tired of me. It was early 2009 and I was finishing up my law degree in Manhattan, taking part in the hustle and bustle, sharing germs with half the city on the subway every morning and dodging spring showers in my suit while running between classes and meetings. I needed an escape. I chose Costa Rica and I chose to take it on alone.
This was hardly my first trip abroad, but it was my first solo trip. My “ex with benefits” thought I, a petite 24 year old, was crazy to travel alone on a shoestring budget in a country where I didn’t know the language. Eventually it became our shared joke, calling it my “walkabout” after I explained my need to break free and have an experience all my own. Following this week of newfound independence, the voyager in me would never be the same.
My flight to San Jose left JFK Airport at o’dark thirty in the morning. Getting safely to the airport was an adventure in itself. This being Manhatten, my living in Spanish Harlem and making the brilliant decision to take the 6 train to the E train at 4:00 in the morning guaranteed that I would encounter some sketchy folks sleeping on the subway cars and one fellow in particular who used the corner of my train car as his toilet. After a morning like that, I felt I could take on anything!
I arrived in San Jose around noon and took a pre-paid shuttle to my hostel. In accordance with every guidebook I’d read about Costa Rica, San Jose met all of my expectations of being a busy, ugly, dirty city with very little to offer. However, my hostel was very comfortable and helped me to plan my activities for the rest of the week. Within an hour of checking in I had made plans to spend the following day whitewater rafting, then take a van to the cloud forests and volcano region of the country and eventually end up in Playa Jaco, a destination I’d had my heart set on, to chill out with some surfers for a few days.
The amazing thing about Costa Rica is the number of young, relaxed people traveling through all the time. We all go there for the same basic reason: to see something amazing and unwind from our lives in busier, more compressed parts of the world. So it is no wonder that I met two young women from Montreal within an hour of arrival who had made similar plans to mine. The next morning the three of us boarded a shuttle to go whitewater rafting together.
(click on photo above to link to my photo album for this trip!)
It was typical rafting trip devised for tourists. We were joined by college aged kids from all over the world including two German girls who shared our raft and a 20 year old woman traveling alone from Finland. That’s another thing I love about Costa Rica: solo travel is the norm and making friends has never seemed easier. We enjoyed a full day under the sun running the rapids of the Pacuare River, known for hair-raising Class V and VI rapids. Of course, this was a family event, so we only rafted up to Class IV and V at most and, in a raft, this is extremely safe. The tour group provided us with lunch, nothing special but it was nice to be fed. By the end of the day I was exhausted, exhilarated, sunburned, and ready for my bed. The day of rafting was followed by an included shuttle to La Fortuna to see the volcano Arenal and the hot springs. Altogether I paid $99 for the transportation, rafting, and two meals. Not too shabby!
La Fortuna is a beautiful little town in the middle of the rainforest, sitting at the feet of the Arenal Volcano. Typically visitors will hike the volcano trails and dip in the hot springs. Unfortunately, I arrived in La Fortuna to find terrible rainy weather, which really s tressed out my Type A personality. Then, after finding a triple hotel room to share with the two ladies from Montreal and getting cleaned up after my long day, my new “pura vida” self was overjoyed to spend the evening eating bad food at a cafeteria and chatting with new friends. The rain only got worse overnight, so I never did hike the Arenal Volcano or dip in the hot springs. Instead I chose to use what little time I had in Costa Rica (a week is NEVER enough!) to keep moving toward better weather and new experiences. My first few days in Costa Rica were a fantastic start to my first solo trip abroad: I arrived safely, made friends quickly, had an outdoor adventure, and had my first lesson in relaxing “off itinerary” and taking life a moment at a time. Note: I didn't have a chance to take pictures during the rafting trip, so I snagged these from Google Images. Credit to: amerikaventure.com and travelpod.com.
This was hardly my first trip abroad, but it was my first solo trip. My “ex with benefits” thought I, a petite 24 year old, was crazy to travel alone on a shoestring budget in a country where I didn’t know the language. Eventually it became our shared joke, calling it my “walkabout” after I explained my need to break free and have an experience all my own. Following this week of newfound independence, the voyager in me would never be the same.
My flight to San Jose left JFK Airport at o’dark thirty in the morning. Getting safely to the airport was an adventure in itself. This being Manhatten, my living in Spanish Harlem and making the brilliant decision to take the 6 train to the E train at 4:00 in the morning guaranteed that I would encounter some sketchy folks sleeping on the subway cars and one fellow in particular who used the corner of my train car as his toilet. After a morning like that, I felt I could take on anything!
I arrived in San Jose around noon and took a pre-paid shuttle to my hostel. In accordance with every guidebook I’d read about Costa Rica, San Jose met all of my expectations of being a busy, ugly, dirty city with very little to offer. However, my hostel was very comfortable and helped me to plan my activities for the rest of the week. Within an hour of checking in I had made plans to spend the following day whitewater rafting, then take a van to the cloud forests and volcano region of the country and eventually end up in Playa Jaco, a destination I’d had my heart set on, to chill out with some surfers for a few days.
The amazing thing about Costa Rica is the number of young, relaxed people traveling through all the time. We all go there for the same basic reason: to see something amazing and unwind from our lives in busier, more compressed parts of the world. So it is no wonder that I met two young women from Montreal within an hour of arrival who had made similar plans to mine. The next morning the three of us boarded a shuttle to go whitewater rafting together. (click on photo above to link to my photo album for this trip!)
It was typical rafting trip devised for tourists. We were joined by college aged kids from all over the world including two German girls who shared our raft and a 20 year old woman traveling alone from Finland. That’s another thing I love about Costa Rica: solo travel is the norm and making friends has never seemed easier. We enjoyed a full day under the sun running the rapids of the Pacuare River, known for hair-raising Class V and VI rapids. Of course, this was a family event, so we only rafted up to Class IV and V at most and, in a raft, this is extremely safe. The tour group provided us with lunch, nothing special but it was nice to be fed. By the end of the day I was exhausted, exhilarated, sunburned, and ready for my bed. The day of rafting was followed by an included shuttle to La Fortuna to see the volcano Arenal and the hot springs. Altogether I paid $99 for the transportation, rafting, and two meals. Not too shabby!
La Fortuna is a beautiful little town in the middle of the rainforest, sitting at the feet of the Arenal Volcano. Typically visitors will hike the volcano trails and dip in the hot springs. Unfortunately, I arrived in La Fortuna to find terrible rainy weather, which really s tressed out my Type A personality. Then, after finding a triple hotel room to share with the two ladies from Montreal and getting cleaned up after my long day, my new “pura vida” self was overjoyed to spend the evening eating bad food at a cafeteria and chatting with new friends. The rain only got worse overnight, so I never did hike the Arenal Volcano or dip in the hot springs. Instead I chose to use what little time I had in Costa Rica (a week is NEVER enough!) to keep moving toward better weather and new experiences. My first few days in Costa Rica were a fantastic start to my first solo trip abroad: I arrived safely, made friends quickly, had an outdoor adventure, and had my first lesson in relaxing “off itinerary” and taking life a moment at a time. 
Monday, February 28, 2011
The Art of Solo Travel
A fellow blogger sent me this article today about the joys of traveling solo. I found the opening paragraphs to be the most telling of my reasons for solo travel. The first, and most whimsical, reason is to embark on a voyage of self-discovery. This is a given, along with challenging oneself to travel outside of one’s comfort zone. I took my first solo trip in 2009 when I visited Costa Rica on a school holiday. It was an ideal first solo experience for me because the “getting there” was pretty simple from New York City and the country is budget friendly and typically attracts laid back travelers both as solos or in groups. For the first time I felt free to interact or avoid other travelers, to make my own itinerary depending on the options presented to me at the moment. For the most part I chose to take part in the company of my new-found friends, but on most occasions the presence of others was only a happy addition to my plans, but not a necessity or a given.
I especially appreciated the unadulterated admission the article makes that solo travel is self-indulgent. This is the truest statement, but it is even more important to point out that there is nothing to feel guilty about for being self-indulgent while traveling, especially while traveling alone. Traveling is, in and of itself, an indulgence. Even those who travel for the greater good, for mission work and the like, choose to give their time in a way that requires travel because they crave the unknown. This is why overseas work is so rewarding: it attracts a certain type of personality that dreams of far away places and people of different cultures.
There is no shame in designing your life to fulfill these dreams and, equally, there is no shame in formulating a trip that is distinctly your own and allowing you to indulge in your greatest joys and simplest pleasures. Some examples from my own travels are taking a one-to-one surfing lesson in Costa Rica, or spending Sunday mornings attending the American Church in Berlin and Paris, or spending a few hours reading a book and sipping café au lait at a brassérie in Mâcon, France. Perhaps my friends and loved ones would have enjoyed these experiences too, but perhaps not. In the end I was able to take these moments on a whim, without worry that a companion might not enjoy them, and make memories that are all my own.
The article then goes on to list the author’s favorite “happy” places: destinations where solo travelers will have fun without a companion or have an easy time making friends along the way. First on the list was Costa Rica, of course! Next up was Vietnam, Laos, Bhutan, and Malaysia. Aside from Bhutan, these make perfect sense because the countries are filled with inexpensive opportunities to completely submerge oneself in history, culture, and breathtaking landscape. Not to mention the innumerable activities and delicious food, as well as the plethora of fellow travelers one is certain to meet along the way! I separated Bhutan from this list because, as the article notes, $200 per day minimum is required to keep Bhutan from being overrun with tourists. Understandable from a preservation perspective, but that qualifier alone would have knocked this one out of the running if I’d been making the list myself.
Next up on the list is Egypt, which I must disagree with wholeheartedly. Regardless of recent events in Egypt, it is very possible that this is a wonderful destination for men traveling solo, however it would be irresponsible of me to not mention the difficulties that will likely arise for solo female travelers in a traditional Muslim country such as Egypt. Additionally, Egypt is known for being decidedly anti-LGBT according to all mainstream sources I have read on the topic. Also, as an economy reliant on tourism the spending traps abound. As a result, a solo traveler is very likely to find themselves cornered into making unwanted purchases or generally attracting unwanted attention in public.
The next destination is Austria, land of schnitzel, strudel and buildings that are so beautiful they sometimes look like wedding cakes! Then Sweden, an often overlooked but extremely “happy” destination. Tunisia is also listed and, I don’t intend to pick on Muslim countries, but I found this surprising for solo travelers because Tunisia is quickly becoming a European playground. As such, it has many large hotels and tourist services, but fewer options for the solo traveler. Germany is next, one of my personal favorites due to the friendly nature of the German people and diverse interests that can be met in the different cities and towns. Next is the Netherlands, also one of my favorites and possibly the most tolerant and welcoming country in the world. Lovely Switzerland is also listed. It’s compact size and diversity of languages and intact history makes it a must-see for all travelers, solo or not. Finally Chile, a country with diverse landscape, equally diverse options for activities, and a delicious culture.
In all I found this article to be a wonderful read, with excellent suggestions for solo trips and even better justifications for taking time out for yourself and having the trip of a lifetime!
I especially appreciated the unadulterated admission the article makes that solo travel is self-indulgent. This is the truest statement, but it is even more important to point out that there is nothing to feel guilty about for being self-indulgent while traveling, especially while traveling alone. Traveling is, in and of itself, an indulgence. Even those who travel for the greater good, for mission work and the like, choose to give their time in a way that requires travel because they crave the unknown. This is why overseas work is so rewarding: it attracts a certain type of personality that dreams of far away places and people of different cultures.
There is no shame in designing your life to fulfill these dreams and, equally, there is no shame in formulating a trip that is distinctly your own and allowing you to indulge in your greatest joys and simplest pleasures. Some examples from my own travels are taking a one-to-one surfing lesson in Costa Rica, or spending Sunday mornings attending the American Church in Berlin and Paris, or spending a few hours reading a book and sipping café au lait at a brassérie in Mâcon, France. Perhaps my friends and loved ones would have enjoyed these experiences too, but perhaps not. In the end I was able to take these moments on a whim, without worry that a companion might not enjoy them, and make memories that are all my own.
The article then goes on to list the author’s favorite “happy” places: destinations where solo travelers will have fun without a companion or have an easy time making friends along the way. First on the list was Costa Rica, of course! Next up was Vietnam, Laos, Bhutan, and Malaysia. Aside from Bhutan, these make perfect sense because the countries are filled with inexpensive opportunities to completely submerge oneself in history, culture, and breathtaking landscape. Not to mention the innumerable activities and delicious food, as well as the plethora of fellow travelers one is certain to meet along the way! I separated Bhutan from this list because, as the article notes, $200 per day minimum is required to keep Bhutan from being overrun with tourists. Understandable from a preservation perspective, but that qualifier alone would have knocked this one out of the running if I’d been making the list myself.
Next up on the list is Egypt, which I must disagree with wholeheartedly. Regardless of recent events in Egypt, it is very possible that this is a wonderful destination for men traveling solo, however it would be irresponsible of me to not mention the difficulties that will likely arise for solo female travelers in a traditional Muslim country such as Egypt. Additionally, Egypt is known for being decidedly anti-LGBT according to all mainstream sources I have read on the topic. Also, as an economy reliant on tourism the spending traps abound. As a result, a solo traveler is very likely to find themselves cornered into making unwanted purchases or generally attracting unwanted attention in public.
The next destination is Austria, land of schnitzel, strudel and buildings that are so beautiful they sometimes look like wedding cakes! Then Sweden, an often overlooked but extremely “happy” destination. Tunisia is also listed and, I don’t intend to pick on Muslim countries, but I found this surprising for solo travelers because Tunisia is quickly becoming a European playground. As such, it has many large hotels and tourist services, but fewer options for the solo traveler. Germany is next, one of my personal favorites due to the friendly nature of the German people and diverse interests that can be met in the different cities and towns. Next is the Netherlands, also one of my favorites and possibly the most tolerant and welcoming country in the world. Lovely Switzerland is also listed. It’s compact size and diversity of languages and intact history makes it a must-see for all travelers, solo or not. Finally Chile, a country with diverse landscape, equally diverse options for activities, and a delicious culture.
In all I found this article to be a wonderful read, with excellent suggestions for solo trips and even better justifications for taking time out for yourself and having the trip of a lifetime!
Friday, February 25, 2011
Design Your Life
"Girl, you are designing your life!" - this is something one of my grandmothers said to me last Thanksgiving when we had arranged a family phone call. I was living in the South of France and the majority of my maternal relatives were gathered for a holiday meal in Rock Island, Washington. She was referring to my travel plans over the Christmas holidays. It was one of my proudest moments, knowing that I had managed to take my life by the horns, at least for a little while, and steal a year to pursue a few of my dreams. It was, indeed, a stolen year. Eventually I had to return to the United States to face my obligations and my student loans, but it certainly planted a seed for the future.
Today I found this post from Go! Girl Guides via Twitter. After a quick peak and their "About" section, it seems these bloggers are ladies after my own heart: travel guide writers solely for female solo travelers. I love it! As a new blogger I'm thrilled to find that others see the need for more information for the "novel nomads" of the world; the ones who don't fit the typical profile written about in mainstream guide books and/or seek out those "novel" experiences that define a person, at least in part, for the rest of their lives.
But back to the Go! Girl Guides post: this post is about leaving your job for an extended trip. This is a subject I struggle with on an internal level almost weekly. As a young attorney just getting started and planning a family in the next few years, I now have more factors to consider than ever when planning my escapes from reality. I dream up destinations and personal challenges within that destination only to realize that such an adventure would require so much more than the standard two or four week vacation time. Then my heart suffers a hairline fracture, only to be bandaged with the hope that my career will allow me some flexibility to take extended leave, sabbatical, or work remotely (see the ROWE movement for my source of hope and strength on this particular topic).
The blog post I read today focuses on leaving your job or taking a leave of absence without burning bridges by focusing on things like planning ahead and honesty. It assumes that you will return home without a job, but with good references so you can start fresh elsewhere but also ends in hopes that your [very understanding and perhaps a bit envious] supervisor may even have your position waiting for you. I completely agree with the article. Though I've never taken a leave of absence from a full-time job, I did once take a break from my part-time law school job in New York to take an internship in Alaska. What made the difference was that I spoke with my direct supervisor months before I was to leave and was completely honest about my motivations: I wanted to use my summer to have an adventure and do something I couldn't do in New York. It worked. When classes resumed the next Fall my part-time gig (which I loved) was still available for me. That experience changed my life and now I live in Alaska, working in the legal profession for another employer.
There are obvious work and personal obligations each of us must attend to, and financial burdens we must individually account for, but those are each person's private business. If you can find a way to cover your bills and come home to a cushion and, hopefully, a few job interviews then go for it! Live out loud and design a custom-made life all your own. That's my message to the world for today.
Today I found this post from Go! Girl Guides via Twitter. After a quick peak and their "About" section, it seems these bloggers are ladies after my own heart: travel guide writers solely for female solo travelers. I love it! As a new blogger I'm thrilled to find that others see the need for more information for the "novel nomads" of the world; the ones who don't fit the typical profile written about in mainstream guide books and/or seek out those "novel" experiences that define a person, at least in part, for the rest of their lives.
But back to the Go! Girl Guides post: this post is about leaving your job for an extended trip. This is a subject I struggle with on an internal level almost weekly. As a young attorney just getting started and planning a family in the next few years, I now have more factors to consider than ever when planning my escapes from reality. I dream up destinations and personal challenges within that destination only to realize that such an adventure would require so much more than the standard two or four week vacation time. Then my heart suffers a hairline fracture, only to be bandaged with the hope that my career will allow me some flexibility to take extended leave, sabbatical, or work remotely (see the ROWE movement for my source of hope and strength on this particular topic).
The blog post I read today focuses on leaving your job or taking a leave of absence without burning bridges by focusing on things like planning ahead and honesty. It assumes that you will return home without a job, but with good references so you can start fresh elsewhere but also ends in hopes that your [very understanding and perhaps a bit envious] supervisor may even have your position waiting for you. I completely agree with the article. Though I've never taken a leave of absence from a full-time job, I did once take a break from my part-time law school job in New York to take an internship in Alaska. What made the difference was that I spoke with my direct supervisor months before I was to leave and was completely honest about my motivations: I wanted to use my summer to have an adventure and do something I couldn't do in New York. It worked. When classes resumed the next Fall my part-time gig (which I loved) was still available for me. That experience changed my life and now I live in Alaska, working in the legal profession for another employer.
There are obvious work and personal obligations each of us must attend to, and financial burdens we must individually account for, but those are each person's private business. If you can find a way to cover your bills and come home to a cushion and, hopefully, a few job interviews then go for it! Live out loud and design a custom-made life all your own. That's my message to the world for today.
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